5 fascinating facts about Angkor Wat

1. The Angkor Wat moat is not just there for security, water source, or even aesthetic value. The moat forms part of a complicated groundwater system (that includes the big reservoir – or Baray to the north of the Angkor Park) that helps stabilize the temple foundations through seasonal flooding and drought.

2. The stairs at the central sanctuary (now covered by wooden steps) are supposed to be steep as a reminder that you should ascend towards the place of the gods on your knees.

3. Construction of Angkor Wat took approximately 40 years. To give some perspective, the construction of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris – built around the same time – took 182 years.

4. Angkor means “city” and Wat means “temple” – so Angkor Wat literally means “City Temple”.

5. Opinions vary about the inspiration for Angkor Wat’s design. Some say the five peaks are based on Holy Mount Meru, some on lotus flowers, some focus more on the overall design which has been thought to either reflect a universe in miniature, or the pervasive yoni and linga symbols replicated throughout Angkor.

5 handy hints for visiting Angkor Wat

1. If you head to Angkor Wat for sunrise – be patient! As the sky gets light, some people are disappointed and leave the area, thinking there will be no full sunrise – only to find that if they had stayed a little longer they would have seen the lazy orange sun rise over the moat and across the towers.

2. Make sure you wear light, loose-fitting clothing that covers your knees and shoulders. Anyone without their shoulders and knees covered will not be allowed into the central sanctuary. It is also considered disrespectful by most Cambodians to show off a lot of skin at a religious site.

3. If you are looking for a little peace and quiet to enjoy the majesty of the temples away from the crowds, head to the East gate. The grassy area here is a nice place to sit in the shade and enjoy the atmosphere.

4. Most people head for lunch at the temples between 11.30am and 2pm. This is a great time to visit Angkor Wat’s central sanctuary to avoid long queues and to enjoy a quieter experience.

5. Unsure whether to visit Cambodia in the rainy season? One of the advantages of the rains is that they fill the moat and the pools at Angkor Wat, making the landscape even more beautiful. Put a rain poncho in your bag, and head out the door early to ensure you enjoy the sight of the water without getting wet!

Angkor Wat History

Angkor Wat was constructed during the reign of Suryavarman II – a militarily aggressive King, who reigned from 1113 AD to around 1150 AD. As well as Angkor Wat, Suryavarman II is credited with constructing Beng Melea and Banteay Samre temples.

Angkor Wat is dedicated to Vishnu, and is orientated to the west – leading many experts to believe that it is a funerary temple. It was abandoned some years after Suryavarman II’s death, when Jayavarman established a new state capital at Angkor Thom. However, there has been a small population living within the Angkor Wat area almost up until the present day. The moat protected it to a certain extent from being totally overtaken by the jungle (unlike Ta Prohm) and there were monks living in and around the temple for many years, as well as the walls providing some shelter for refugees during the civil war.

Angkor Wat was “discovered” by António da Madalena in 1586, but global awareness of the temple was really created through the travel writings of French explorer Henri Mouhot in the mid 19th century. The site was listed as a World Heritage Site in 1992 and from that time restoration work has been ongoing.

Architectural design

Most people enter Angkor Wat from the impressive western causeway – a wide terrace that crosses the 200m wide moat and leads to the main entrance. Visitors then reach the outer wall which runs at 1025m by 800m. Within the wall, you find another causeway, two libraries, and the remains of two pools. Past the pools, you reach the central temple structure. This is designed on three levels. Each level encloses a square surrounded by linked galleries. The third level is the most impressive, and, at the time of building, was only accessed by the King and the high priest. Standing 42m high, it gives amazing views over the Angkor Park, and is architecturally interesting in itself. It’s a steep climb up but well worth it.

Bas reliefs

One of the attractions of Angkor Wat for many visitors is the array of well-preserved bas-reliefs (wall carvings) covering its walls. Throughout the temple you can find many carvings of apsaras and devatas, but it is the large reliefs that depict whole stories that attract the most attention. Three of the most famous are the reliefs depicting the Battle of Kurukshetra, the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, and the Army of Suryavarman II.

The Battle of Kurukshetra

Situated in the south part of the west gallery, this panel visualizes the battle of the Hindu Mahabharata. Some sections look like black marble – but this is just polishing from centuries of visitors who have traced the figures with their fingers.

Churning of the Ocean of Milk

Perhaps the most famous bas-relief at Angkor Wat, this is situated in the southern section of the east gallery and depicts gods and demons churning the sea to extract the elixir of immortality.

The Army of Suryavarman II

In the west part of the south gallery, you can learn more about the king who constructed Angkor Wat, and his idea of his own military prowess (which he is considered to have somewhat overstated). These two panels present foot, soldiers, offers, commanders and finally Suryavarman II on an elephant.

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Why and When to Visit

The tranquil stone faces of Bayon are some of the most recognizable images from the Angkor Archeological Park, and missing the opportunity to see them in person would be an absolute crime. In fact, Bayon is considered one of the “big three” sites that every visitor to Angkor should see – the other two being Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm. In addition to the multitude of giant stone faces smiling down at you from every direction, the site also includes an impressive array of well-preserved bas-relief carvings depicting an unusual combination of scenes from history, mythology, and everyday life.

Although Bayon is fairly compact compared to many of the other temples, you should allow at least two hours to wander through its complex maze of chambers, passages, and occasionally steep stairways. There is sufficient shade in Bayon to make it pleasant to visit at any time of day, but if you wish to avoid the crowds you should visit in the afternoon. There are unique photo opportunities everywhere you turn, and a guide can help point out where to get the best shots – including the popular composition of visitors facing “nose to nose” with one of the giant heads. The play of light changes dramatically throughout the day due to the complex structure of the temple and the shade from the surrounding trees. There is almost no direct sunlight in the hours just after sunrise and just before sunset.

Location and How to Get There

Bayon is located in the exact center of the Angkor Thom complex, precisely 1.5km from both the North and South gates, and can be entered from any point. Unlike many of the other Angkor temples, Bayon has no moats or surrounding walls. It is protected on all sides by the city of Angkor Thom itself. Part of the Small Circuit, Bayon is easily reached from any direction as it is surrounded by a road. Contact us to arrange for a safe and reliable tuk-tuk or taxi driver to show you around the park.

Architecture

The architectural style of Bayon is distinctly different from Angkor Wat and other temples in the Angkor complex and it has undergone numerous modifications and additions during its history. Unlike the magnificent façade of Angkor Wat, Bayon doesn’t look terribly impressive from a distance. You can’t fully appreciate its beauty until you enter the temple.

Most of the Angkor temples are constructed with features oriented in the four cardinal directions, but Bayon’s face towers seem to point every which way. While most of the towers do have four faces, some have only two or three, while the central tower has many more. The number of face towers is seemingly random, and there is some dispute about how many towers were included in the original design of the temple. Some believe there were 49, and others say it was 54. One theory holds that there was one tower for each of the 54 provinces in the Khmer empire at the time of the temple’s construction, symbolically keeping watch over all the inhabitants of the kingdom. However, the ravages of time have left only 37 of the towers standing today.

There are two richly decorated galleries which serve as enclosures to the temple – the outer gallery depicting scenes from battles and other historical events as well as images of everyday domestic life, and the inner gallery primarily illustrating mythological tales. The beautiful bas-relief carvings feature an astonishing level of detail, including more than 11,000 figures. The inner gallery, added by the Hindu King Jayavarman VIII, is elevated above ground level, and the upper terrace, which holds over 200 of the famous giant faces, is one level higher. A circular central tower rises 43m high.

History

Bayon was the last state temple built in the Angkor complex. The great Buddhist ruler, King Jayavarman VII, began its construction near the end of his life – sometime in the late 12th or early 13th century. Originally intended to be a Mahayana Buddhist temple, it was altered during the reign of King Jayavarman VIII when the empire briefly reverted back to Hinduism in the mid-13th century. The temple underwent further modifications under the Theravada Buddhist kings in later years.

The most distinctive feature of Bayon is the subject of some disagreement among historians. Some believe that the tranquil faces are meant to represent the Bodhisattva of compassion known as Lokesvara, and in fact, the host of tranquil visages is often referred to as the “200 faces of Lokesvara”. Others believe that the faces are portraits of King Jayavarman VII, and indeed, they do bear a striking similarity to other statues of the king. Both hypotheses may be true, as many Khmer rulers regarded themselves as “god-kings”.

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5 facts about Angkor Thom

1. Angkor Thom site is 10sq km in size.

2. There are 216 faces on the Bayon temple.

3. Baphuon temple in Angkor Thom became one of the world’s largest jigsaw puzzles when the records from the carefully mapped pieces that had been taken apart were destroyed during the Khmer Rouge. Archaeologists were left with a lot of stones on the ground and only their best guess as to where they might all go.

4. Ta Prohm is not the only temple to feature in Tomb Raider. The east gate of Angkor Thom made an appearance as well.

5. The Angkor Thom gates would have originally been closed with wooden doors.

5 handy tips for visiting Angkor Thom

1. It is possible to walk around the whole Angkor Thom wall. There are a couple of steep scrambles to get up and down at the gates, but a walk round the wall is a lovely way to explore the Angkor Park.

2. The south west corner of the Angkor Thom wall, overlooking the moat, is a lovely sunset spot.

3. Don’t just visit Bayon. While the temple is fascinating, it’s really taking in all the other nearby structures that gives a sense of the scale of the site.

4. The south gate is the busiest with visitors as it is closest to Angkor Wat. For a magical entrance to the temples, buy you ticket first, and then hire a motodop to take you through the west gate of Angkor Thom to enter the temple park.

5. Angkor Thom is a big site and takes energy! Rehydrate with fresh coconuts sold in the local restaurants outside.

Angkor Thom’s history

Angkor Thom was founded by King Jayavarman VII, one of the most important figures of the Khmer Empire. He was a Buddhist, and during the time of his reign oversaw a wholesale conversion of the Khmer people from Hinduism to Buddhism. He was a great believer in public works, creating schools, hospitals, and reservoirs. He is also famous for resurrecting the Khmer Empire following Cham invasions, and creating a glorious new capital city – Angkor Thom – which was the central hub for a population of around 1 million.

Angkor Thom remained the capital of the Khmer Empire throughout its decline – and was probably fully abandoned in the 16th century. It is now, as with the other temples in the Angkor Park, a World Heritage site.

Architectural design

The city of Angkor Thom is surrounded by a wall, 8m high and 12km long, with five gates (two in the eastern wall). The entrances to some of the gates are lined with statues of gods and demons holding nagas, and the gates themselves are adorned with the face of Avalokiteshvara, the goddess of compassion (although it’s thought they also strangely resemble King Jayavarman VII). The wall itself is circled by a 100m wide moat. Bayon is in the center of this area, with Baphuon slightly to the west, and some of the smaller temples further north. The stunningly intricate Terrace of Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King are to the north of Bayon.

Bayon

Perhaps the spookiest or the most mesmerizing of the Angkor temples, the center piece of Angkor Thom – Bayon – looks like nothing much from a distance. However, once inside, you realize that Bayon is constructed around 54 towers, with 216 smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara peering down at you. Bayon is a fantastic temple to explore – with mazes of tunnels, blocked doorways and tumble-down rocks making it a perfect place to get lost in the mysteries of Angkor.

Bayon is 45m high and has three levels linked by stairs and small yards. The galleries on the first and second level have historical and religious bas-reliefs. The third level has a central circular tower, which is unique in Khmer Architecture.

Baphuon

Baphuon is located 200m west of Bayon and was marked as the center of the city when the whole of Angkor Thom was fully complete. A pyramidal representation of Mount Meru, at the time, it was probably one of the most impressive of the Angkor temples. A 200m elevated walkway leads to the temple which has a central tower 43m high.

Terrace of the Elephants

This 350m long terrace was supposedly used as a platform from which Jayavarman VII viewed his victorious returning army. The stairs are decorated with lions and garudas and life-sized images of elephants and their guardians are displayed on the terrace walls.

Terrace of the Leper King

This 7m high platform is located north of the Terrace of Elephants. On top of the platform you will see a nude statue (the original is kept in the National Museum of Phnom Penh). The exact meaning of the statue isn’t known. Some believe that it represents one of two possible Angkorian Kings who had leprosy. Others believe is represents the God of Death, and that the terrace as the royal crematory.

Preah Palilay

One of the loveliest temples in the Angkor Thom complex is Preah Paliliay in the north-west corner of the site. Quiet and atmospheric, it provides some great photo opportunities with huge trees looming over its structure.

Phimeanakas

Phimeanakas is more interesting historically than visually. It used to house a Royal Palace, where bathing would take place (the pools are still apparent) but very little remains. However, a climb up its pyramidal structure gives nice views of the surrounding area.

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There is, however, obviously much more to Ta Prohm than its famous friends. It is perhaps included in “the big three” along with Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom as one of the must-see temples because of the movie-attraction, but in reality Ta Prohm is a mesmerizing temple to visit quite apart from its Hollywood status. In fact, it is probably the decision not to clear the site of trees, and leave some of the most impressive jungle/ruin take-overs in place, that caught the attention of film location scouts and made it one of the most atmospheric and most photographed of all the temples.

Location and how to get there

Ta Prohm is part of the small circuit of the Angkor complex and is just a few minutes in a tuk tuk away from Angkor Wat or Angkor Thom. The main buildings of the temple are encircled by a large wall and so are not immediately visible from the road but rather discovered by a short walk on a jungle-lined path. A fantastic way to come to this temple is by bike, through the trails in the Angkor forest and the lesser-used gates. It takes an experienced bike guide to find the route through the crisscross paths but it’s a magical way to explore the area and arrive at the inner enclosures of the temple.

Most visitors combine a tour of Ta Prohm temple with a visit to Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat to fill their one-day pass at the temples. However, Ta Prohm is surrounded by a myriad of other, smaller sites that, combined, can make for a great day of exploration. Banteay Kdei and Ta Nei in particularly are quite under-visited yet interesting sites which make for a peaceful break from the crowds.

Ticket requirements

Ta Prohm is included in the temple pass for the Angkor Archaeological Park. There is no separate entrance fee to visit the temple.

Best time to visit

Ta Prohm temple is best visited early in the morning when everybody else is at Angkor Wat. The surrounding jungle is alive with sounds and the light is at its best for keen photographers trying to catch the ongoing battle between nature and architecture.

History of Ta Prohm temple

Ta Prohm’s original name was Rajavihara, meaning “monastery of the King”. It was built as a Mahayana Buddhist monastery and university. The construction of the temple is dated to 1186AD, but it is generally considered to have been added to and embellished over a period of several years. As Maurice Glaize comments in his appraisal of the temple, “While for some time all the various temples in the style of the Bayon were attributed to a single king – Jayavarman VII – during his twenty or so years reign, today it seems more likely that he could not, in such a short time, have done more than just transform, extend or complete already existing religious establishments with his mark.”

Jayavarman VII dedicated Ta Prohm to his family, as evidence by the inscriptions on the stele. The inscription lists many of Jayavarman’s ancestors, as well as giving details of the construction enterprise on the site. Perhaps most compelling though is the information the stele gives about the people whose lives revolved around this site. Nearly 80,000 people were involved in serving the temple, coming from over 3,000 surrounding villages. The stele also mentions that there were 102 functioning hospitals in the Kingdom. Numbers like this give a fantastic insight into the sheer scale of the Khmer empire at that time.

Layout and structure

Although work has been done to stabilize the ruins, Ta Prohm was deliberately left much as it was found, giving it the nickname the jungle temple. As a result it can be confusing to navigate the site as some parts are impassable, and it is tempting to explore the temple from one amazing tree formation to the next, rather than by any temple plan.

The layout of the site is relatively simple, consisting of a number of one-story buildings (a “flat” Khmer temple rather than pyramid structure) which are enclosed by a partially-standing rectangular wall 600 x 1000m. Within this wall would have stood a substantial town, but now the temple interior is inhabited by jungle. At the east of the site there are four smaller enclosing walls which wrap around the central sanctuary.

Most people enter the temple from the west, and after a short walk are greeted by a stone terrace in the shape of a cross which forms a walkway over a narrow moat. This leads to the fourth enclosing wall and the beginning of the real Ta Prohm experience. From this point there are courtyards, passageways and towers to explore, all in nature’s grip – partly destroyed and partly conserved by the encroaching jungle. Some of the buildings in the inner enclosures are thought to have been added in later years, such as the libraries in the first and third enclosures. The famous tomb raider tree is located in the central sanctuary and is an impressive sight, the roots seeming to both strangle and support the ruins beneath.

Ta Prohm’s dinosaur carving

Ta Prohm does not feature many complex carvings, or narrative reliefs. In the central sanctuary you can see the holes in the walls that may have held a covering of stucco or metal. Original carvings may have decayed in the jungle, or been destroyed following the death of Jayavarman VII and the rise of Hinduism.

However, visitors may want to try and find the now-famous stegosaurus carving and join the argument as to whether the carving is merely a hoax, or if it does in fact prove that the Khmer civilization had knowledge or even first-hand experience of dinosaurs.

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How to get there and entry

Travelling east from Srah Srang until you reach the temple’s south east corner. Enter the temple from the east, where vehicles can park. Entry is covered with your valid Temple Pass, and is often one of several temples included in the ‘big circuit’ tours of Angkor temples.

When to visit

The temple attracts visitors at sunrise and sunset, due to the reddish tint to the structure. The combination of brick, laterite and sandstone means that morning rays of sun, or a sunset glow, catch the stonework’s unique hue. Its situation on a plain ensures that temple views are unfettered by encroaching jungle or foliage.

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Architecture

Use of grey sandstone, a less durable material than the stone used in most temples built at that time, means that the weather-worn structure’s decay has been accelerated. Despite their gradual fading state, it’s possible to walk the series of long galleries and libraries – a typical feature of 10th Century architecture and never again seen in temples built after Pre Rup’s completion.

Visitors can still see lion statues guarding, lintels, doorways and colonettes in stone, with decorative work in lime mortar. The architect, Kavindrari-mathana, designed gopuras, cross-shaped openings, in each wall, and each featuring three doorways. Later buildings were added during the time of Jayavarman V.

The legendary stone ‘cistern’ lies in the central enclosure. This is assumed to be the base for a bronze statue of Nandi that was once housed there, rather than for use in cremation ceremonies, as was a popular belief in later times.

The symmetry of the city’s square layout is further emphasised by the square-based pyramid in its centre, consisting of three tiers, reaching 12 metres height. The lower tier is surrounded by 12 small shrines, and the top tier features five towers; one in each corner and one central tower. A two-tiered platform supports this central tower, now crumbling, but impressive for its scale and endurance nevertheless. The eagle-eyed may spot false doors. The only real door can be seen on the tower’s east side, guarded by carved Deities.

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History of Phnom Bakheng

During his reign, King Jasovarman I (889 – 910 CE) moved the capital of his empire from Roluos to the location which is now known as Angkor. Here, he created an enormous city of 16 square kilometers; bigger than Angkor Thom, which was built later. In the center of this city, King Jasovarman built his State Temple on top of a natural hill, known as Phnom Bakheng hill.

Structure and Symbolism

Phnom Bakheng is a pyramid shaped temple consisting of 7 levels, symbolizing the sacred Mount Meru and the 7 Hindu heavens. 108 towers were arranged on the ground and upper levels of the temple, symbolizing the 4 lunar phases of each 27 days long. Unfortunately, most of these towers collapsed. The temple was devoted to the god Shiva and served as a tomb for king Jasovarman I.

Getting There & Around

Phnom Bakheng is located 400 meter south of Angkor Thom. If you’re approaching from Angkor Wat, then Phnom Bakheng hill is to the left side, set back from the road. It’s worth stopping. A sandy path winds up the hill to the foot of the temple. From here, steep and narrow stairs lead you to the top terrace. The view is breathtaking and if you visit at sunset it’s a soothing way to end the day.

When to Visit

Given that Phnom Bakheng’s main attraction is its sunset view over Angkor Wat, plan your visit for the late afternoon. Arrive early (4pm) if you want a good spot on the south-east corner. Especially in high season the temple can get crowded. Note that you’ll need a good zoom lens to make a close-up picture of Angkor Wat, which is 1.3km away. Alternatively, there’s a fantastic sunset view over West Baray on the opposite side (north-west corner).

After enjoying the sunset, be careful climbing down Phnom Bakheng temple’s steep steps. A small flashlight will come in handy.

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Why and When You Should Visit

Visit Baphuon for the spectacular view of Angkor Thom. You’ll approach the temple along a 225m elevated sandstone walkway, passing through a pavilion about halfway along the walkway which will bring you to the main temple. You’ll get a bit of a workout as you climb the steep stairs to the next levels. Keep the temple on your right as you stroll around and enjoy the beautiful carvings and the amazing views. Try to visit Baphuon in the morning or late afternoon as there is no shade available on the long walkway, and the steep climb to the top can be very taxing during the hottest part of the day. Allow at least an hour to explore Baphuon. This will give you enough time to wander around the site and climb to the summit.

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Location and How to Get There

Baphuon is part of the Angkor Small Circuit, which takes you to all the “must-see” temples in the Angkor Archaeological Park. It is located within the Angkor Thom complex approximately 200m northwest of Prasat Bayon. Enter from the east – just follow the walkway. You can certainly wander around the park on your own, but hiring a tuk-tuk driver to take you around the Angkor complex is an inexpensive way to efficiently cover more ground and make sure you don’t miss anything in this enormous complex. Contact us to connect you with a safe and reliable tuk-tuk or taxi driver to show you around the park.

Architecture

The Baphuon temple is the prototype for the Baphuon style of design which covers every available surface with intricate carvings. These carvings include both realistic and fanciful depictions of lotus flowers, wild animals and hunters, devata figures, and men in battle. There are also carvings with indirect references to Hindu mythology and scenes illustrating epic poems such as the Ramayana. The sandstone temple-mountain symbolically represents the sacred five-peaked Mount Meru important in both Hindu and Buddhist cosmology. There are three enclosures in the Baphuon temple complex, and the main structure is situated on a high base. With the bronze tower that was part of the original structure it would have been roughly 50 meters high, but without this tower it stands 34 meters tall.

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History

This magnificent temple was built by King Udayadityavarman II in the middle of the 11th century, before the city of Angkor Thom was established. Originally a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, it was converted into a Buddhist temple in the late 15th Century, and a huge reclining Buddha (nine meters tall by 70 meters long) was added to the west side of the temple’s second level around this time.

Like the Leaning Tower of Pisa, Baphuon was built on a too-soft foundation of sandy soil which proved to be inadequate for such an immense structure. This shaky foundation caused the temple to be unstable for most of its history, and it is very likely that large portions had already collapsed by the time it was converted to a Buddhist temple. The stones from the collapsed portion of the structure were utilized in the creation of the reclining Buddha, which is one of the largest in Southeast Asia.

By the early 20th century, Baphuon was on the verge of complete collapse. A massive restoration project began in the 1960s, which involved dismantling the temple stone by stone, reinforcing the foundation, and then re-assembling the structure. 300,000 blocks of stone were labelled and numbered, and carefully arranged in the 10 hectares surrounding the temple site, waiting to be put back together. Unfortunately, the project was abandoned when civil war broke out in 1970, and the plans identifying the stones’ intended location were destroyed by the Khmer Rouge.

A second restoration project, which came to be known as the largest three dimensional jigsaw puzzle in the world, was launched in 1996 under the guidance of the architect Pascal Royère. Modern technology greatly aided in the process, but it still took 16 years to complete the puzzle. The lighter colored stones are the restored pieces. We are truly fortunate to be able to visit this remarkable site, and owe a debt of gratitude to the hundreds of workers responsible for reconstructing this magnificent temple.

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Why and When to Visit

Although Ta Som is part of the Grand Circuit, it is frequently skipped by tourists who are more interested in visiting the better-known sites in the park. If you choose to visit this often-overlooked temple, you will be well rewarded for the effort. It is quite likely that you’ll have the place to yourself, and you can take your time to explore the site in peace and take as long as you like to examine the well preserved bas-reliefs without being jostled by crowds. The impressive strangler fig embracing the eastern gate is very similar to the tree-covered temple of Ta Prohm made famous in “Tomb Raider”, but you won’t have to stand in line to get a photo, and you’ll have the leisure to take as many shots as you’d like. Ta Som is uniquely beautiful and you’ll enjoy it no matter what time of day you see it, but the best light for photographing the temple will be in the early morning or late afternoon.

Location and How to Get There

Ta Som is located in the northeast section of Angkor Archeological Park, on the east side of the man-made lake called Javatataka Baray. There is an island in the middle of this lake where the Neak Pean temple is located. Visitors doing the Grand Circuit will usually arrive at Ta Som by way of Neak Pean, and then proceed to East Mebon. Although the temple was originally designed to be entered from the east, modern visitors will enter Ta Som from the west side, crossing below the face tower located on the western gopura.

History and Architecture

Ta Som was built during the late 12th century by the great King Javayarman VII. Little is known about the purpose of this temple, but it may have been dedicated to the King’s father or one of his teachers. Ta Som was swallowed up by the jungle until the 1930’s, when it was cleared out enough for visitors to access the site, but left in its mostly unrestored state. This Bayon-style temple is surrounded by a moat and three separate enclosures constructed of laterite, which is a rusty-red colored rock common to tropical climates. The first or inner enclosure features four corner towers and four gopuras, and face-towers with four faces looking out in each of the cardinal directions. The second and third enclosures are separated by the moat. These outer enclosures mirror each other as they both feature two gopuras, on the east and west side.

The face towers are King Javayarman VII’s signature, and are featured in many of the temples built during his reign. Most historians believe that the faces are meant to represent both the king and Lokesvara, the bodhisattva (enlightened being) of compassion. Like many temples throughout the Angkor Archeological Park, Ta Som depicts both Hindu and Buddhist icons, as the official Angkor religion switched back and forth over the centuries. Sadly, some of the depictions of the Buddha were damaged in the 13th century when Hinduism overtook Buddhism for a time. However, considering its great age and the depredations of the jungle, many of the bas-relief carvings are in surprisingly good condition.

If you have the time, try to visit this small but lovely temple. You won’t be disappointed.

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Location and getting there

The temple is around 70km from Siem Reap. For years the temple was difficult to access due to the condition of the roads, but now it is a relatively easy journey. A private taxi takes around 1 hour 30 minutes from Siem Reap, and, with a 2 hour wait at the temple should cost between 45-55USD for a return journey. Requesting the driver to take the small roads, away from National Route 6 also gives a lovely quiet drive through Cambodian countryside. It is also possible to take a tuk tuk for a Beng Mealea tour however this can take an extra 30 minutes/hour without a particular saving on cost and a definite difference in comfort!

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Nearby places of interest

If you have the whole day to explore some of the more remote Angkorian sites, then you may want to combine a visit to Beng Mealea with a drive up to Koh Ker, or to Kulen Mountain. Another alternative is to return from Beng Mealea via National Route 6 and stop off at the Roluos group of temples on the way back to Siem Reap.

Ticket requirements and site facilities

Since January 1st 2020, Beng Mealea is included in the admission pass for Angkor Archaeological Park.

Beng Mealea tour guides: There are some official, and some unofficial tour guides who base themselves at the temple. You may find some of the enterprising local children keen to become involved as well. As little is known about the history of the temple, and there are few complicated friezes, a guide may not add as much to the experience as at some of the other Angkorian temples.

Restaurants: There are a few small restaurants serving Khmer food outside the entrance to the temple. These are somewhat overpriced for the standard of food offered, but you pay for the convenience as there is nowhere else to buy food in the area. While some visitors may prefer to travel back to Siem Reap for lunch, there is also something to be said for supporting the local  economy surrounding the temple and stopping for an iced coffee or some bai chas (fried rice) before making the return journey.

Places to stay: Beng Mealea is part of a small village, but there are no official guesthouses or homestays. However, enquiry at a local restaurant may be able to secure you a blanket and a mat on a wooden floor in someone’s home. Expect to pay up to $5 per person per night, although bargaining may be possible.

Best time to visit

The temple can be visited at any time of day but the busiest time is between 9am and 11am, especially between November and February, so those looking for a more peaceful experience may want to avoid those times. A Beng Mealea tour is best timed at sunrise and the two hours after, when the light is magical, the birds are stirring, and the site virtually deserted.

History of Beng Mealea

Little is known about the history of the temple and the attraction of a visit really lies in the atmosphere of mystery and exploration, rather than the historical and architectural intricacies of some of the other Angkorian sites. As a Hindu temple, it is thought to have been constructed around the same time as Angkor Wat. Due to its similarity in structure to Angkor Wat, Beng Mealea is thought to have been a prototype for the great temple. It is a large site, facing the east, and encircled by a wide moat. It is built of sandstone, although the carving is simple and limited to certain areas. These may be lintels, platforms or cornices decorated with a single frieze – much more understated than the imposing faces of Bayon, or the elaborate craftsmanship on display at Banteay Srei. In addition, many of these ornate features are found strewn across the temple floor where walls and columns have collapsed. This in some way can add to their charm as visitors may literally stumble upon them while exploring the temple.

The temple was likely the center of a town, and it lies on the ancient royal highway which leads to Preah Khan, in Preah Vihear province.  The site was cleared of landmines in the last decade so has only recently become a viable tourist attraction.

Beng Mealea map

The temple can be a little confusing to explore due to its dilapidated state. There are three galleries which enclose a central sanctuary. Structures referred to as libraries are found on the right and left of the main causeway.

The picture on the left depicts a floor map of the temple, based on a drawing by Léon de Beylié, one of the early Western visitors of the Angkorian temples in the early 20th century. The red line shows the wooden walkway, used to visit the temple.

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How to get there

Located 1km south of the East Baray and east of Banteay Kdei, the terrace is accessed via steps from the road, which lies at a lower level than the baray’s banks, affording a view across the water as you approach.

When to visit

Sunrise is a popular time to visit Srah Srang, as it offers a peaceful alternative to the crowded Angkor Wat.

History

Although the name suggests its purpose was for royal bathing, inscriptions found on the site, dating back to the mid-10th Century, point to a more inclusive intention – providing water ‘for the benefit of all creatures’.

The possibility that there was once a temple built on an artificial island in the centre of the 700m x 300m reservoir was discovered when stones, similar to those used for East Mebon, were found. Changes to the structure of Srah Srang occurred in the 12th Century when Jayavarman VII added a terrace to its western side and lined the pond with sandstone. The additions to the original structure are likely to have coincided with the East Baray having accumulated sediment, causing it to cease functioning efficiently. An alternative source of water for the population would have been required – Srah Srang being a convenient choice.

Architecture

Srah Srang has all the elements of a romantic setting, with its surrounding greenery, its grand landing stage and sweeping views across the water, reflecting a sunrise or a setting sun. Serpent balustrades that lead down to the water from the platform are flanked by two majestic lions. Visitors will also find a large garuda riding a three-headed serpent, which rests on a platform along with other mythical creatures. The Bayon-style architecture so favoured at the time, was the work of King Rajendravarman’s preferred architect, Kavindrarimathana.

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