January 1: New Year’s Day

Cambodians drink and dance in the streets, and will also frequently throw water at each other during the countdown to the new year.

January 7: Victory over Genocide Day

The end of the murderous Khmer Rouge regime is commemorated with memorials to those who were killed in the genocide.

March 8: International Women’s Day

This is a day dedicated to celebrating the achievements of women, and to eradicating violence against women.

April 14-15-16: Khmer New Year

In a society where many people still work the land, this four-day harvest festival is considered the most important of all the public holidays in Cambodia. Many city-dwellers will head to the Angkor Archaeological Park for Angkor Sankranta, a giant festival with traditional games, dancing, food and exhibitions all highlighting Khmer culture.

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May 1: International Labor Day

Also known as International Worker’s Day or May Day, this is a day to celebrate the achievements and importance of the working class.

May 4: Visak Bochea

This holiest day in the Buddhist calendar marks the birth, death, and attainment of enlightenment of the Buddha. Both public and private areas will be freshly cleaned and decorated with flowers, and many people will visit statues of the Buddha with lit candles in the evening.

May 8: Royal Plowing Ceremony

This holiday marks the start of the rainy season with feasts and prayers for a bountiful harvest. The highlight of the day is the ceremony in which the king actually does a bit of plowing and planting for the traditional beginning of the rice-growing season.

May 14: King Sihamoni’s Birthday

The current king of Cambodia will be 67 this year on May 14, which is a public holiday in Cambodia in honor the popular monarch.

June 18: Queen Mother’s Birthday

The Queen Mum of Cambodia will be 84 years old in 2020. Cambodians celebrate her birthday with family-friendly activities and fireworks.

September 24: Constitution Day

After centuries of hardship caused by invasions, occupations, and the genocidal Khmer Rouge, having a modern constitution is definitely cause for celebration.

October 01-02-03: Pchum Ben

Also known as Ancestor’s Day, this Buddhist holiday is the time to remember dearly departed relatives.

October 15: Commemoration Day of King’s Father

Anniversary of the death of the current king’s father, who passed away in 2012.

October 29: King Sihamoni Coronation Day

The anniversary of the king’s coronation in 2004 is celebrated with fireworks, parades, and a variety of cultural events.

November 9: Independence Day

Parades and fireworks are standard features of the celebrations to mark the anniversary of independence from France in 1953.

November 14-15-16: Water Festival ( Bon Om Touk)

This three-day festival marks the time of year when the Tonle Sap River changes course, and also commemorates a 12th Century naval victory with boat races and fireworks.

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King Norodom Sihamoni has spent more of his life living outside Cambodia than residing in the country. He spent his early life in what is now the Czech Republic, where he studied classical dance and music until 1975. He returned to Cambodia briefly between 1977 and 1981 and was kept under house arrest with his father by the Khmer Rouge. After leaving the country in 1981, he spent the majority of the next 20 years in France, teaching ballet and holding the position of Cambodia’s delegate to UNESCO – the UN cultural body based in Paris.

King Norodom Sihamoni speaks Khmer, French, Czech and English. He is unmarried and has no children. His father is famously quoted as saying about his son: “He loves women as his sisters”.

Power and duties

According to the constitution of the Kingdom of Cambodia, the King of Cambodia shall reign but not govern. The King is inviolable, and is appointed head of state for life. While it is an appointed monarchy, the chosen monarch must descend from the blood line of King Ang Duong, King Norodom or King Sisowath. There is nothing in the constitution to suggest the appointment of a Queen, and the King cannot himself appoint an heir.

The King of Cambodia holds the authority to appoint the Prime Minister, Council of Ministers, and assumes the role of Supreme Commander of the Royal Khmer Armed Forces. However, in practical terms, the King possesses limited political and military power.

A significant portion of the King’s responsibilities is ceremonial in nature. This includes attending festivals throughout the country to pay tribute to the 23 Cambodian public holidays. Additionally, the King plays a crucial role in cultivating and strengthening relationships with other monarchs and ambassadors, representing Cambodia within the international community. Moreover, the King holds immense importance as a symbolic leader for the Cambodian people. The national motto, “Nation, Religion, King,” signifies the monarchy’s significance in the collective consciousness of the nation. The constitution also establishes the King as a unifying and everlasting symbol of the nation, safeguarding Cambodia’s independence, sovereignty, territorial integrity, and the rights and freedoms of its citizens, as well as guaranteeing adherence to international treaties.

It is highly disrespectful, not just to the King but to the entire country and its people, to criticize or make jokes about the King publicly, particularly in the presence of Cambodians. It is advisable to exercise caution and refrain from engaging in such behavior, as it can be seen as deeply disrespectful and offensive.

Former King, Norodom Sihanouk

It is difficult to talk about the “King” of Cambodia, without referring to King Norodom Sihamoni’s father, Norodom Sihanouk. Norodom Sihanouk was King of Cambodia from 1941 to 1955 and again from 1993 to 2004. He was also the effective ruler of Cambodia from 1953 to 1970. After his abdicated in 2004 he was referred to as the King Father of Cambodia – demonstrating the familial affection that nearly all Cambodians felt for their monarch.

The King Father was a hugely influential figure in Cambodian politics through much of the 20^th century. He navigated his way to independence from France, and managed to keep relative stability for Cambodia in what was a very volatile region until his deposition in 1970 by Lon Nol. He was also a key figurehead in the Khmer Rouge revolution. The King Father supported the Khmer Rouge in their bid to overthrow the Lon Nol government and many of the soldiers who joined the Khmer Rouge cause felt they simply were “going to the hills to fight for their King” – and were not necessarily aware of, or subscribing to the radical Khmer Rouge ideology.

Of course, Sihanouk was held under house arrest by the Khmer Rouge leaders when he returned to Cambodia in 1976 and it was clear then that he was firmly against the new regime. However, neither was he supportive of the Vietnam-installed government that overthrew Pol Pot in 1979. Sihanouk was adamant that Cambodia’s seat on the UN should be kept empty, as neither the Khmer Rouge, nor the Vietnamese properly represented the Cambodian people. He formed his own party – the Coalition Government of Democratic Kampuchea (CGDK), which eventually agreed to peace with Hun Sen’s People’s Rebublic of Kampuchea party in 1991. Sihanouk was appointed to King again in 1993 but from this time until his abdication he suffered from worsening ill health, including colon cancer, diabetes, and hypertension. He died after a heart attack in Beijing, on 15 October 2012, 16 days before his 90th birthday. The country went into a period of mourning which culminated in the cremation of his body in Phnom Penh on 5^th February. It was expected that 100,000 might line the streets of Phnom Penh to pay their respects as his body was carried through the city and lay in state for a full weekend. In fact, it is estimated over 1 million people made the journey, many coming from the far provinces in Cambodia, and staying in Phnom Penh for days – sometimes weeks – to say their farewells.

The current King, King Sihamoni, does not hold quite the same place in the hearts of people in Cambodia as his father. Having spent much time living outside of Cambodia, he is a relatively unknown figure, who, even now, is still much in his Father’s shadow. However, the love that people in Cambodia feel for their King Father, does result in a quiet respect for his son. It is interesting to see how his role develops as Cambodia goes through a period of economic growth and hopes to strengthen its position within the group of ASEAN nations and on the international stage.

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Cambodia has blossomed into one of the key Asian destinations for luxury holiday-makers, backpackers and everyone in between. Nestled in between Thailand, Vietnam and Laos, this “watery Kingdom”, as it was first described during the inception of the Khmer empire thousands of years ago, is well-connected on transport routes, has a wealth of attractions and is particularly easy to travel due to the relatively high level of English spoken in comparison to neighboring countries.

Defined by history

Cambodia is well-known for two things – the temples of Angkor and the Khmer Rouge. The former are an enormous source of pride within Cambodian culture. The ancient Khmer Empire (9th – 15th centuries AD) covered much of modern day Thailand and Vietnam and is seen as the glory-days of Cambodia, and the birthplace of many of the cultures, languages and traditions of the entire region. Any visit to Cambodia is incomplete without a trip to Angkor Wat to gain an insight into the hugely important role this empire played in the history of the area, as well as in contemporary Cambodian society.

Conversely, the tragedy of the Khmer Rouge and the ensuing civil war are not frequently spoken about in modern day Cambodia – the trauma still in living memory for much of the population. Between 1975 and 1979 around 2 million people were killed from overwork, starvation, disease or execution. The entire infrastructure of the country (schools, healthcare, currency) was either destroyed or massively compromised. As per Pol Pot’s intention, the country was brought back to “year zero”.

Cambodia’s future

The future of Cambodia is looking brighter than ever before! ​The country has made impressive strides in recent years, thanks in part to its youthful population. With around half of its 14 million residents under 30, there’s a contagious energy of innovation and progress in the air, especially in the vibrant capital of Phnom Penh.

In fact, tourism has been booming, with a record-breaking 6.6 million visitors in 2019 before the pandemic hit. While the industry took a hit, Cambodia is already bouncing back and is predicted to see a steady increase in visitors in the coming years.

And there’s plenty for visitors to enjoy, with a wealth of new restaurants, hotels, and activities popping up all over the country. From stunning beaches and lush jungles to ancient temples and bustling markets, Cambodia truly has something for everyone.

​Just remember, the best time to visit is between November and February, when the weather is cool and comfortable. But even in the rainy months between June and September, there’s still plenty to see and do. Don’t miss out on this incredible destination!

Phnom Penh and the Provinces

Cambodia’s capital city – Phnom Penh (pronounced Puh-nom Penyh), although relatively small as capital cities go, is certainly bustling! With busy streets packed with motorbikes, street vendors, and tourists it can be overwhelming at first. However, there is a charm to Phnom Penh. Head to the Olympic Stadium at around 4pm to see scores of people doing open air aerobics or take a sunset boat cruise on the river where the Tonle Sap meets the Mekong. Phnom Penh’s growing café culture is also perfect for people watching and soaking in the atmosphere of the city.

Outside Phnom Penh, Cambodia has a further 22 provinces. These are dominated by two huge waterways – the Tonle Sap on the east (flowing from and into the Tonle Sap Lake) and the mighty Mekong to the west. As a result, Cambodia has an ideal ecosystem for rice farming, and the majority of the provinces are dominated by agriculture and carpeted with rice fields. However, heading east visitors find rolling hills and swathes of jungle. There’s a chance to spot river dolphins on the Mekong in Kratie or spend time chilling out and eating delicious crab in the beach towns of Kep and Sihanoukville.

“Nyam bai?”

Nyam bai – literal translation “eat rice” is how to ask in Khmer whether you have eaten yet. You do not eat in Cambodia without eating rice. Not only is rice Cambodia’s main form of industry (80% of the population are rural rice farmers) rice also dominates the food culture. Sitting down to eat rice (nyam bai) as a family is hugely important and no meal is complete without a bowl of rice. Traditional Khmer cuisine involves a big bowl of rice with a few shared dishes – usually including a soup and some kind of stir-friend meat and vegetables. Famous Khmer dishes include Amok curry (a light, coconut curry flavored with the Amok herb) and Loc Lac (beef in a peppery sauce with an egg on top) but more every day fare is fried rice or fried noodles with meat and vegetables. It is considered polite to always offer to share your food to someone if you are eating. If you are hungry, it is fine to accept, but also a polite decline explaining that you have already eaten is not considered rude.

Khmer language

Khmer is the language of Cambodia. It’s not a tonal language, but is notoriously complicated to learn – with 35 consonants and 23 vowels. It’s relatively easy to learn a few basic phrases however. Making the effort to say “Sursedey” (hello/good-day), “soksabye” (how are you) or “awkun” (thank you) tends to be much appreciated. and may earn you an additional discount when bargaining, or some additional help or kindness when navigating around the area.

Monarchy and Politics

Cambodia is a “Kingdom” and the regent is Norodom Sihamoni, eldest son of Norodom Sihanouk, referred to as “King-Father” by many Cambodians. The King is a highly respected figure, although now has little political power.

The Cambodian government is led by Hun Sen, one of the longest-serving prime-ministers in the world, having been in power of over 14,000 days since the fall of the Khmer Rouge. As a result, politics is a sensitive issue in Cambodia – with few people feeling confident to share their views.

Customs and traditions

Cambodia celebrates 19 public holidays honoring an array of political, religious and international festivals. Family traditions and celebrations are incredibly important, with wedding parties lasting at least 2 days and respects to elders and ancestors forming part of everyday customs as well as important yearly celebrations.

In Khmer culture, elders are respected and there are different forms of address to give respect to people of different ages. Many cultural customs are connected to Buddhism, the national religion. The head is considered sacred, and the feet unclean. The preservation of harmony in relationships is crucially important and displaying anger or excessive emotion in public is thought inappropriate. This cultural nicety is perhaps one of the reasons why Cambodia was voted the friendliest country to visit in the world as visitors are always treated with kindness, patience and smiles.

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Early civilizations

Laang Spean (Cave of Bridges) in Battambang Province in the northwest of Cambodia is home to a documented Hoabhinian site (period of Southeast Asian prehistory from about 13,000 to 3000 BC). Excavated in the 1960s by French archaeologists, the site produced flaked stone tools characteristic of the era, as well as earthenware ceramics though to be from the Neolithic period. It is thought that several historic sites in Cambodia may overlie pre-historic remains, but there is little archaeological record for much of the prehistoric era.

Funan and Chenla

The Funanese period and Chenla period, occurring between the 3rd – 6th centuries CE were culturally continuous Kingdoms linking eastern India and southern China to the islands of the South Seas. It is thought that, at its height, Funan extended as far west as Burma and south to Malaysia, taking in much of what is now Thailand and South Vietnam. Both civilizations were heavily influenced by trade with India, leading to the adoption of many Hindu religious beliefs that came to gain importance in later Khmer culture. It is unlikely that these Kingdoms were great ruling powers over the whole region; rather they were composed of different states or principalities supported through trade and intermarriage – and sometimes at war with each other.

Khmer Empire

The holy mountain of Phnom Kulen, just north of today’s Siem Reap, has attracted recent attention from archaeologists due to a mapping project which has identified the legendary ancient royal capital city of Mahendraparvata. Commonly called the birthplace of the Khmer empire, inscriptions on the mountain tell of Jayavarman II, proclaiming himself a ‘universal monarch’ in 802. Jayavarman II was the first in a succession of kings that held sway over this golden age of Khmer civilization. Most famous from this period, is, of course, the development of Angkor Wat in the early 12th century and the surrounding temples. However equally impressive (and essential for the construction of the temples) was the taming of the watery Kingdom with huge irrigation systems that not only supported agriculture but which were also linked to the foundations and stability of the temples themselves. This period is still thought of as the birthplace of many of the cultures, language and traditions of the entire region.

Dark Ages

After the death of Jayavarman VII (responsible for the construction of Ta Prohm, Angkor Thom and Bayon, the Khmer empire went into a period of decline, ending with a successful Thai invasion in 1431. The following 400 years is referred to as the “dark ages” of Cambodia, with its neighbors Siam and Vietnam fighting for dominance over the region.

French Protectorate

It is difficult to say whether King Norodom (ruler from 1860 to 1904) “requested” Cambodia to become a French protectorate in 1867, as it’s possible that his feelings were influenced by French naval military presence in the country. However, this agreement did do a great deal to re-establish Cambodia as an independent Kingdom and prevent it from being completely pulled apart and consumed by its neighbors. The French influence over Cambodia brought about many political changes (including ending slavery) and brought much international attention to the country through the “discovery” of the Angkor temples. However there was also resistance to the French, which surfaced in active rebellion in the late 19th century, and in academic and political movements in the 1940s.

Independence

World War II brought more instability to the entire region with at one point the Japanese occupying Cambodia. King Sihanouk (monarch from 1941 to 1955 and again from 1993 to 2004) was in a precarious position, trying to negotiate for independence, while not leaving his country too vulnerable in face of the difficulties brewing between the USA and Vietnam. Much has been written about Sihanouk’s political maneuvers at the time (in 1952 he dismissed his cabinet, suspended the constitution, and assumed control of the government, introducing martial law) but the situation was so complex it is hard to say, even in retrospect, what would have ultimately been best for the safety of Cambodia and its people. As it was, Sihanouk managed to secure complete independence in 1953.

Civil War

Sihanouk tried to maintain Cambodia’s international neutrality in the messy period of the Vietnam war and, in doing so, some say he lost the battle at home. Throughout the 1960s political unrest grew in Cambodia, and resulted in Sihanouk’s removal from power by Lon Nol in 1970. Lon Nol’s administration proved disastrous however, prompting Vietnamese invasion, civil war and encouraging the USA to carpet bomb massive parts of the country. This unrest bolstered support for the newly formed Khmer Rouge (literally “Red” Khmer) who captured Phnom Penh on April 17th 1975. Initially welcomed by the people as the saviors of their nation from the forces of the USA and Vietnam, the jubilation at the Khmer Rouge’s victory waned immediately. Within hours, Khmer Rouge forces evacuated the entire city of Phnom Penh on enforced marches into the countryside. Separating parents from children, husbands from wives, sisters from brothers, the Khmer Rouge enforced a brutal agrarian peasant society, destroying the values of family and replacing them with loyalty to the “Ongkar” – the party. Time was declared to be year zero, currency was destroyed and the country was closed to all international communication and influence. A new, tragic period of Cambodian history had begun.

Khmer Rouge

During the 3 years, 8 months and 20 days of the Khmer Rouge regime, is it estimated around 2 million people died – that’s a quarter of Cambodia’s entire population. Many of these were ordinary farmers, dying from starvation, overwork, or simple diseases that were left untreated due to the Khmer Rouge’s rejection of most medicinal practices. In addition, many people were executed in what are now known as Killing Fields. Anyone who was suspected to have a connection to the previous regime was murdered without trial. This meant that the majority of the educated population was either killed or fled the country.

However, Pol Pot’s control over the Khmer Rouge across the country was never particularly stable due to in-fighting and intense paranoia. The breakdown of relations with Vietnam ultimately led to a Vietnamese invasion, supported by many dissatisfied former Khmer Rouge members. In January 1979 Phnom Penh was captured and the Khmer Rouge collapsed, enabling a devastated population to gradually return to their homes, attempt to survive and rebuild their lives.

While the Khmer Rouge was effectively removed from power in 1979, they were still recognized by the international community as the legitimate government of Cambodia until the 1990s, and even held a seat at the UN. This period was still a very difficult one for Cambodia as fighting continued across the country as the Khmer Rouge battled to regain control.

Recovery

In 1991 the UN was given authority to supervise a ceasefire in Cambodia and pave the way for free and fair elections. These eventually took place in May 1993, although it is disputed how “free and fair” they actually were. Hun Sen‘s Cambodian People’s Party actually came second in the election, but due to a coalition proposed by Prince Ranariddh‘s winning FUNCINPEC party, gained the majority of influence as Hun Sen was installed as Prime Minister, and the Prince became politically sidelined even though he was elevated to King.

Hun Sen has retained a firm grip on Cambodian politics ever since, and many Khmer people see him as the savior of Cambodia, rescuing them from the Khmer Rouge, uniting the country and bringing prosperity and foreign investment. Hun Sen also has many critics, especially from the international community, due to his record on human rights and the extent of corruption within the Cambodian government.

In terms of Cambodia’s recovery, for many people in rural areas, change is still slow. While the tourist centers of Phnom Penh and Siem Reap are exploding with investment and development, little of this is felt by the 80% of the population who earn their living farming rice. While basic infrastructure is improving (roads, school buildings, health centers, etc.) many Cambodians still struggle to earn a living wage, complete their education, and are very vulnerable to preventable and treatable diseases.

Much emphasis has been placed on the young generation of Cambodia – the 50% of the population born after the Khmer Rouge atrocities – who, unlike their parents, have had access to at least some education and have been exposed to global influences thanks to the rise of mobile and internet technology. However, with many of the older generation understandably fearful of change, and a political heavyweight unwilling to release his grip on the country, the weight of history is still a heavy burden on Cambodia’s development. One can still hope though, that with a growing start-up scene, excitement over ASEAN integration in 2015 and a fierce sense of Khmer identity, it is possible this young generation will bring a positive future for Cambodia.

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Geography

Phnom Penh is located where the two great rivers in Cambodia – the Tonle Sap and the Mekong – meet. The area was the capital of Cambodia for a period of about 70 years in the 15th century, but it was the French influence in 19th century that firmly established Phnom Penh not only as a political hub, but as a vibrant city with modern infrastructure and of course French-colonial architecture.

The city is now home to over 2 million people – just under 15% of the population of Cambodia. Cambodia’s very own stock exchange was incorporated in 2010 and the capital is a base for the headquarters of most of the (multitudinous) NGOs that operate in the country. Over the last few years Phnom Penh has grown at a rapid rate with a huge amount of international investment giving rise to shopping malls, office buildings and entertainment complexes.

Phnom Penh Attractions

One of the most popular areas of Phnom Penh for visitors tends to be the Riverside. Lined with bars and restaurants, and giving nice views of the Tonle Sap, this area lends itself to lazy afternoons watching the world go by. A short distance east of the river, the streets are also packed with late night bars and guesthouses as well as being close to the central market and night market. For those wanting to stray away from the usual tourist hotspots, head to street 240, or the area just south (and slightly south east) of Independence monument. These up-market areas demonstrate Phnom Penh’s blossoming café culture. Over the last few years a plethora of coffee shops have sprung up – used by Cambodians and expats alike. Sipping coffee and sampling pastries in one of these establishments is a great way to get a bit of a feel for the new emerging side of Phnom Penh – a young, rising, ambitious population pursuing both education and business in a bid to compete with other ASEAN nations.

The tourist “sights” in Phnom Penh are rather sobering as some of the most visited places are Tuol Sleng (the infamous Khmer Rouge prison) and the Killing Fields just outside the city center. Anyone interested in understanding Cambodia should take time to visit at least one of these sites, as the Khmer Rouge era still defines many of Cambodia’s struggles today.

Tuol Sleng is quite a harsh place to visit – a former school, it was turned into a detention center where supposed opponents to the regime were tortured for their confessions.

The Killing Fields is equally sobering, but has become more of a memorial to the people who died there, rather than a museum. A very well written audio guide, put together by Youk Chhang (Director of the Documentation Center of Cambodia ), helps visitors move around the site and gives an insight into the lives of people who suffered at that time.

A good way to end a challenging day visiting these sights is with a boat trip along the Tonle Sap at sunset. It’s possible to rent a whole boat to yourself, or sign up for a general boat tour. The boat trip will take you at a leisurely pace down the river to where the Tonle Sap merges with the Mekong. It’s a relaxing way to see Phnom Penh from a different perspective.

Visitors might also like to have a quick stroll around the Olympic Stadium (Cambodia has never hosted an Olympics, but the stadium complex somehow landed this name) after 3pm. Scores of Phnom Penh residents gather there to join in outdoor aerobics classes, have impromptu football games, or just jog around the track. It’s a fun, relaxed, and a very Cambodian environment.

Another popular sight with visitors who have a short time in Phnom Penh is the Royal Palace, including the Silver Pagoda. Originally built in the 19th century, many buildings in the complex have been reconstructed over the years, but still the overall site is impressive. The Silver Pagoda isn’t actually made of silver, but rather part of its interior is lined with silver tiles. Only a small part of this is actually visible (the rest is covered for protection) but another key attraction is on display – Cambodia’s Emerald Buddha.

Getting around

Phnom Penh is the most accessible city in the country. Phnom Penh airport is well serviced by a variety of airlines, and only a 20 minute tuk tuk ride out of the city center. There are regular buses to and from all the other main destinations in Cambodia, as well as out to Vietnam, Laos and Thailand. Getting around in Phnom Penh can be a little more challenging than in other Cambodian cities due to the volume of traffic. There are plenty of tuk tuks to be found, but visitors might have to take a deep breath as drivers cut across rows of oncoming traffic, or blithely drive the wrong way into the traffic until they find a gap to get to the other side. It is not recommended to ride a motorbike or bicycle in Phnom Penh until you feel confident with the traffic and street layout.

Weather

You can expect the same weather in Phnom Penh as elsewhere in Cambodia – either hot and wet, or hot and dry. As with many capitals, the population density tends to make it feel warmer than the provinces, and a room with air conditioning can be a welcome respite from the heat and noise of the city. If visiting in rainy season, make sure to pack sight-seeing into the first part of the day. Mornings tend to be clearer, with rains coming in the afternoon and evening.

Conclusion

Phnom Penh may not have the splendour of the Angkor temples nearby, nor the attraction of coastal waters, or the adventure of the eastern jungles, but visitors to Cambodia still feel the pull to stay longer when they are there. Refreshingly small in size in comparison to most Asian capitals, it is a fun, friendly place to explore, with a mix of difficult history and optimistic development.

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Geography

Sihanoukville is located in the South West of the country on the Gulf of Thailand and is situated on a peninsula that is separated from the central plains of Cambodia by the Damrei Mountains (literally meaning the ‘Elephant Mountains’). Sihanoukville is one of the smallest provinces in Cambodia. It is boundaried by Koh Kong province to the north and west and Kampot to the east. There are more than a dozen small islands on the Sihanoukville coast, most of which are within a few hours journey by local boat. There are also a number of sandy beaches on the mainland.

Sihanoukville Attractions

The main attraction in Sihanoukville is the natural environment. There are a number of beaches on the coast that are popular with foreign and Cambodian tourists alike.

Beaches

Otres Beach is perhaps the quietest, prettiest stretch of beach with fewer restaurants and shops. Just around the headland from Sihanoukville town it’s often the choice for those wanting a relaxing time enjoying the sea and the sand.

Occheuteal Beach is where you will find restaurants and bars and a good party at night. Some now find it too busy and noisy, but it’s a great place for a fun night out. The top section of the beach is now known as Serendipity beach and has guesthouses right on the beach. Again, this beach is pretty lively and caters mainly to backpackers.

Victory Beach used to be the most popular party beach, but has lost out in popularity in recent years to Occheuteal Beach. Unfortunately now it is an evening hotspot for sex tourism and as a result many people find the area unappealing.

Those wanting a bit of luxury can check into the five-star Sokha Hotel which has its own private beach. This is a way to enjoy the white sands away from the party lights of the other beaches – but of course it comes at a price.

Independence Beach is a 500m strip of sandy beach lined with deck chairs and few bbq huts. The sands actually stretch for longer but half of the beach is currently under development. However, Independence is still much quieter than many of the other spots, and there’s also a tiny island just off the coast at the northern end.

Islands

The islands off Sihanoukville are now perhaps nicer beach destinations than the mainland coast, as many are substantially underdeveloped and so for those wanting a desert-island holiday they form the perfect destination.

Koh Rong is the biggest island and the most developed, with plans for an airport in the future. Another very popular island is Koh Rong Saloem – a little bit further off the coast and with more of a robust infrastructure for guests, without being spoiled.

It’s worth noting that although there are guesthouses on most of the islands, many of these are extremely basic, with rooms consisting of bamboo bungalows on the beach and only a small selection of eateries. Some places also offer massage, snorkeling or boat trips, but there are limited activities. A holiday on one of the islands is really meant for those who want something of a disconnection from modern living with just sun, sea, and sky for their daily activities.

Other attractions

Sihanoukville’s town center is not particularly remarkable as it has formed around the import/export industry and tourism for the beaches. There are a number of guesthouses and a large amount of western restaurants in the town.

Within easy reach of Sihanoukville is the Ream National Park which is home to some protected bird species and mangrove channels. The park also offers good trekking in the mountains and forest.

History

Sihanoukville is a very new city. The construction of the port – around which the town grew – only finished in 1960. The port was funded by the French before Cambodia gained their independence. It is named after the “King Father” of Cambodia; King Sihanouk. In the 21st century it has become an important focus of Cambodia’s economic growth as it is the only international port in the country and as such the hub for imports and exports. It is also one of the most important tourist destinations in the country after Siem Reap.

Population

The population of Sihanoukville really started off as the builders and their families who were working on the construction of the port. Unusually, but not unexpectedly, only 50% of the families living in the region are rice farmers. The other 50% 200,000 strong population work in some sort of service industry.

Weather

The weather in Sihanoukville is similar to most other parts of the country. It is worth noting that rainy season at a beach resort can be quite frustrating, and other areas of the country are best visited between July and September especially. It is also the case that this part of the country can receive quite a high volume of rain due to weather fronts coming in from the sea, and the proximity to the Damrei Mountains. The best time for a break here is November – February when it’s dry and sunny but not too hot. Between March and June many people may find it far too hot for sun bathing and beach action.

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Geography

Battambang Province is in the north west of Cambodia, located on the west bank of the Tonle Sap Lake, and borders Banteay Meanchey Province to the north, Pursat to the east and south, Siem Reap to the northeast, and Pailin to the west. Battambang Province also borders Thailand either side of Pailin. Battambang city is located on the Sangkae River. National highway 5 runs from the Thai border through the Province and the city and continues south to Phnom Penh.

Attractions

Battambang city center is an attraction in itself. Graced with beautiful pagodas and French colonial architecture, it is the opposite of Siem Reap as it bustles during the day and quietens down to a whisper at night. It’s worth spending a few hours wandering the streets, appreciating the shop-house architecture, sampling in one of the coffee shops, and engaging in some Khmer-style aerobics beside the river at sun down. Streets numbers 1-3 that run parallel to the river (including the quaintly-terms streets 1.5 and 2.5) are particular worth meandering down due to their architecture, and some newly established local art galleries and cafes.

The pagodas in Battambang are arguably some of the most beautiful in the country. The story goes that the officer in command in Battambang under the Khmer Rouge loved the pagodas so much that he couldn’t bring himself to carry out his orders to destroy the religious monuments in the city. They remain relatively unscarred by the regime and the subsequent civil war. Wat TahmRai Saw (located at the end of street 2 and 2.5) is known as the white elephant temple and is possible the most visited temple due to its elaborate structure. However, Wat Kandal is also picturesque and located at the end of a quiet street on the opposite site of the river.

One of the highlights of a visit to Battambang is a trip to the circus. French NGO Phare Ponleu Selpak (trans. “the brightness of the arts”) offers a range of artistic training – including circus skills – to local vulnerable children. Four times a week, graduates of the school give hour-long performances in the organization’s big top tent. It’s a show not to be missed; full of energy and jaw-dropping acrobatics. You can arrive at the site before the show for a complimentary drink in the small art gallery where the work of other young artists is displayed and available for purchase. An evening appreciating the work of the artists at Phare is a great way to discover the talent and potential of the young generation of Cambodia.

Other attractions in Battambang are located a short ride outside of the city. Phnom Sampov is 12km outside of the city and rises 330ft proud of the surrounding flatlands, giving stunning views from the temple that sits at its peak. You can stomp up to the top on foot – although it’s a hot walk – or there are moto drivers willing to drive you most of the way up there for a negotiated fee. The caves under the mountain are known as the “Killing Caves” and are a site where major atrocities occurred under the Khmer Rouge regime. They now serve as a peaceful memorial to the victims who died there.

The Bamboo Train is quite a famous, if not slightly bizarre, attraction located about 5km outside of the town center. Cambodia has no rail service, but the local community use the tracks that are still in place, along with bamboo pallets on wheels, to transport goods between villages. Now, they also transport tourists (at $5 each) who want a 20 minute ride, between the villages as well. It’s a there-and-back return journey, with a stop to turn the “train” around and allow local kids to make a few dollars giving you a tour around the local rice mill and brick factory. Best enjoyed earlier in the day before it gets too hot (there is no shade) it’s a fun way to take a trip into the countryside.

If you’re visiting Battambang between around July and November, then make sure you take a trip to Kamping Puoy Lake. A good ride out of the city center (about 35km), the lake is just under 20km long and is famous for its covering of lotus flowers. In rainy season, when the lake is full, you can take a local boat out for a trip among the flowers and stilthouses.

There are Angkorian ruins in Battambang province: Wat Ek, Prasat Banan and Prasat Snung. After the splendours of the temples in Siem Reap, these may seem less impressive but all can be visited in a day trip from the center.

History

Battambang has a population of over 1million people, with only around 13% living in Battambang city. As with much of Cambodia, the majority of the population are rural rice farmers – indeed, the province is the leading rice producer of the country. It was established as an important trading city under the French Protectorate due to its easy link to Thailand and the waterways of the Tonle Sap. Battambang was heavily affected by the civil war, as the area was a Khmer Rouge stronghold with fighting continuing in the region until 1996. During this period the city was off limits to most visitors as it was on the front line in the war against the Khmer Rouge. Typically government forces would push the Khmer Rouge back towards neighbouring Pailin in the dry season only to cede most of the gains once the monsoon rains came. Battambang has not developed as a tourist destination in the same way as Siem Reap, but as a province it is still wealthier due to the success of its agricultural sector.

Weather

The weather in Battambang is the same as in most of the rest of Cambodia with a hot wet season from May to November and a hot dry season from December to May. Large parts of the east of the province are under water in wet season when the Tonle Sap floods.

If there is time in your schedule, a visit to Battambang is highly recommended. Although only a 4 hour bus ride from Siem Reap (or just under 3 hours in a taxi), few tourists ever make the journey – making it a great spot for a quiet weekend, and a chance to explore Cambodia at a more leisurely pace.

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The Mekong River in Cambodia

In Cambodia, the Mekong enters the country in the north east, at the border with Laos, in the province of Steung Treng. From there it flows south west through the provinces of Kratie, Kompong Cham, and Kandal, before meeting up with the Tonle Sap river in Phnom Penh. From here, the Mekong separates itself again and flows south to Vietnam – slightly to the east of the Tonle Bassac river – a distributory river of the merging of the Mekong and the Tonle Sap.

A unique river system

The Mekong contributes to Cambodia’s unique river system. In dry season, the Tonle Sap flows into the Mekong where the two rivers meet in Phnom Penh. In rainy season, when the Mekong’s waters are high, the volume of water pushes the flow from the Tonle Sap back up north, reversing the seasonal flow of the river and flooding the Tonle Sap lake and the surrounding plains. This reversal in flow of the Tonle Sap and the related flooding helps support Cambodia’s wildlife, rice farming, and even the stability of the Angkor Temple foundations.

Wildlife on the Mekong

The Mekong is really an eruption of wildlife. The area is said to be one of the richest areas of biodiversity in the world, second only to the Amazon basin. The WWF estimates that there are 20,000 plant species, 430 mammals, 1,200 birds and 800 reptiles and amphibians in the Greater Mekong Sub-region. National Geographic term it as the “world’s most productive river” due to its plethora of fish and its tendency to product array of “mega-fish” such as the giant catfish. Species under threat in the region include the Irrawaddy Dolphin, the Indochinese Tiger, and the Asian Elephant.

Tourism on the Mekong

Many people choose to explore this part of South East Asia through a cruise or boat journey down a section of the Mekong River. It’s a fantastic way to explore the stunning rural landscapes in the area, and serves as an alternative point of entry to the usual cities and temples. For those who struggle with their sea legs, the Mekong highlights in Cambodia are in Kratie, Kompong Cham and Phnom Penh. In Kratie, you can take a local boat out early in the morning to go dolphin-spotting (most visitors are successful at seeing some), and Kompong Cham provides waterfront with some enjoyable local day trips in the surrounding area. In Phnom Penh, take a sunset boat cruise for an hour along the Tonle Sap until it merges with the mighty Mekong and watch Phnom Penh settle into dusk as you glide along.

Trade on the Mekong

The Mekong River is notoriously difficult to navigate, due to the high number of waterfalls and rapids along its length. Despite this, a large amount of trade is conducted via the Mekong, on the stretches that are possible to navigate easily. Most waterborne trade in Cambodia is conducted with Vietnam and a new deep-water port that was opened in Vietnamese Cai Mep in 2009 has done much to increase traffic and opportunity in the region.

The future for the Mekong

As such an important water and food source, the Mekong has of course its fair share of controversy. There are many hydroelectric dams along the river, and more are being planned for the future. Over-fishing and wildlife poaching is also a problem, as is nearby deforestation and the increase in trade and industry. It is not well understood what the long-term effect of these issues are likely to have on the fragile ecosystems, and a range of environmental organizations are campaigning for more thorough impact evaluations.

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It is estimated that 95% of the population of Cambodia are Buddhist. Buddhist philosophy permeates nearly all aspects of the culture and in many cases it is difficult to tell where religious traditions stop and cultural niceties start. Adherence to the rituals of Buddhism are more common in the older generation, although the major festivals are celebrated by pretty much the entire population.

History

Hindu was actually the main religious influence for many years of the Khmer Empire, with only a couple of Buddhist Kings ruling. Angkor Wat is the largest Hindu temple in the world – dedicated to Vishnu. However, Buddhism was brought to Cambodia as early as the 5th century AD from the influence of Hindu trading merchants and the Mon kingdoms. Hindu and Buddhism co-existed peacefully in Cambodia for many years, and when Jayavarman VII finally established Buddhism as the national religion, the accepted faith naturally included Hindu symbolism and traditions.

Jayavarman solidified the presence of Buddhism in Cambodia by sending his son to study Theravada Buddhism and be ordained as a monk. As part of the shift from Hinduism to Buddhism, the idea of the god-king gave way to a veneration of monks. The resources placed on constructing great temples to honour these kings waned in favour of building libraries, hospitals and educational facilities – more directed at the development of people than the veneration of a deity. Perhaps this goes some way to explaining the whole-sale shift in religious belief for nearly the entire Khmer population in a relatively short space of time.

Buddhism in day-to-day life

The pagoda is the heart of Cambodian life and many villages, towns, and cities have developed around particularly active pagodas. The pagoda was traditionally the place of education for boys, and many young Cambodian men (generally those from poor backgrounds) still enter the pagoda for anything between one and ten years to benefit from the education provided.

Buddhism teaches reincarnation and karma. Good deeds are rewarded with good consequences, and an elevated status in the subsequent life cycle. Likewise, bad deeds can result in bad consequences and a lower status in the subsequent life cycle. This can explain the seemingly dismissive treatment of poor or disabled people in Cambodian society, as many people believe their misfortune to be the result of actions in their past life.

There are five key precepts in Buddhism which guide people’s behaviour to help them live a happy life:

1. To refrain from taking life
2. To refrain from taking that which is not given (i.e. theft)
3. To refrain from sensual (including sexual) misconduct
4. To refrain from lying
5. To refrain from intoxicants which lead to loss of mindfulness

Buddhist monks often observe several additional precepts including celibacy, not eating after midday, no entertainment or personal possessions.

Many of the teachings of Buddhism encourage practitioners to overcome suffering, anxiety or dissatisfaction. This feeling is seen as being very common to all human life, and the cessation of it part of what all people should strive for. It is easy to see where this core belief filters through into wider Cambodian culture. In Cambodia, preservation of harmony is more important than fighting for justice or independence. Loud and aggressive persons are thought to be rude, or disrespectful, and confrontation is often avoided at all costs.

Celebrations

Most of the major Cambodian annual festivals are connected with Buddhist festivals. The Khmer New Year celebrations in April include venerations of Buddha statues and offerings at the pagodas. Pchum Ben (festival of the ancestors) in October is held at the end of the traditional 3 month retreat for Buddhist monks.

Weddings and funerals are presided over by monks and nuns, and often new houses, premises or purchases are also blessed by monks for good luck. Water blessings are a common – where people (and sometimes possessions) are fully doused from head-to-toe in blessed water to bring them good luck and protection.

Buddhism and the supernatural

Many of the beliefs that are subscribed to Buddhism in Cambodia actually stem from ideas and practices more closely related to animism and the spirit world than Buddhism. There is a strong belief in ghosts and spirits especially in rural communities. Most plots of land have spirit houses – miniature wooden houses where incense and offerings are placed to placate the spirits of the land that are being disturbed by the people living there. Belief in spirits also translates into many traditional medicinal and healing practices, which are sometimes in turn linked back to monks and Buddhism. Many Cambodians will seek out assistance from monks or healers if they are ill rather than doctors. There is also a strong belief in fortune-telling and visionaries, and experts in this area regularly consulted to help with important decisions such as investing in property, long travels, or matters concerning marriage and families.

Other religious minorities

Despite being the main religion of Cambodia for many years, Hinduism is now pretty much non-existent in Cambodia. The largest minority religion is Islam, practiced by Cham Muslims, one of Cambodia’s tribal minorities. There are approximately 200,000 Cham Muslims in Cambodia – previously there were many more but the group was heavily persecuted during the Khmer Rouge regime.

Christianity was introduced to Cambodia centuries ago, but failed to take root due to the strong loyalty of the people to their King and his religion. Even with the establishment of the French Protectorate neither Christianity nor grew Catholicism much during the 20th century. After the fall of the Khmer Rouge the influx of faith-based NGOs may have resulted in a slight increase in awareness of the religion. A notable growing religious population is that of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (commonly known as the Mormons) who in the last 15 years have established 31 congregations.

With the obvious exception of the Khmer Rouge era, when no religion was acceptable, Cambodia has historically been a tolerant country in terms of religious attitudes. Religion is largely disassociated from politics, and the times when monks have become involved have been limited and very controversial. Buddhism, Hinduism, animism and superstition have all combined together over the years to reflect the rhythms of traditional Cambodian life and become an undercurrent to Cambodian national identity. One of the many crimes of the Khmer Rouge was to strip away this identity, leaving a confused and vulnerable population. Now, as the younger generation turn away from the pagodas and traditions in favour of capitalism, globalisation and consumerism, the older generation are becoming nervous at the idea of losing, once more, those beliefs that help define themselves and their nation.

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Geography

Kampot Province is on the south west coast of Cambodia on the Gulf of Thailand. Kampot town, the province’s capital, is located on the Kampot River, just a short way south east of Bokor Mountain national park. Kampot province also encircles Kep Province – a tiny, recently created province with a few sandy beaches that serves as the beach destination for the region.

Kampot has a population of around 640,000, with most people working in agriculture. Kampot is slowly developing as a holiday destination, although it is generally overlooked for Sihanoukville by locals and tourists alike. However, Kampot has much to recommend it, being rich in history as well as attractions.

Attractions and activities

One of the most popular day trips in Kampot is to Bokor Mountain national park. It is possible to book a trip with a guide and minibus to take you around, or the adventurous can go trekking instead. Before the Khmer Rouge, Bokor was a small resort town, and home to one of the King’s Residences. It had been established as a small community by the French, with a Catholic church and a luxurious hill station. Now, many buildings lie derelict and destroyed by conflict, and there is just one very large hotel on the mountain (owned and established by the Cambodian government). The main attraction for many people is in the history of the area, the stunning views of the surrounding countryside, and the lovely waterfalls.

There was intense fighting on Bokor Mountain during the civil war as the area was a Khmer Rouge stronghold. Many atrocities took place in the old buildings on the island, and there are very knowledgeable guides in the area who lived through much of the conflict who give visitors a history and stories of the region. As a result, a trip to Bokor can be both a beautiful and eerie experience. Mist often shrouds the hills, and combined with the derelict buildings really give the impression of a ghost town.

The Kampot River is an attraction in itself, and no stay in the region is complete without a boat outing or canoe trip to take in the scenery. Boat trips are relaxing and cheap. It’s especially nice to go at sunset and watch the sun setting behind the mountains. An equally relaxing experience is wandering around the town and sampling a variety of small coffee shops and social businesses in the area. The town is calm and peaceful and it’s easy to while away an afternoon just enjoying the atmosphere and watching the world go by.

Visitors may also enjoy visiting one of the pepper farms in the region. Many are well established with small tours to show visitors the farming process, and shops selling their product. Kampot pepper is famously enjoyed with shrimp or crab, and the local restaurants can provide this succulent seafood dish at very reasonable prices.

Also in the region is Teuk Chhou, just a few kilometres upriver of the town. This is an area of rapids which also has a small island and some local restaurants It’s a great place for tubing, relaxing and swimming. There is also a zoo nearby, although the project has been involved in some controversy in recent years, so interested visitors should think about researching their visit first before choosing to visit.

In Kampot town you can also find mini-golf, petanque, quiz nights and movie nights. Organized for the benefit of locals and expats, they are low-key and welcoming. It is also possible to rent motorbikes in Kampot – although those who do are best having good insurances, as moto theft is becoming a problem in the area, and accidents are common.

Kampot is especially popular with cyclists, as the hills provide a little more of a challenge than many other parts of Cambodia! There are numerous trails and tracks that provide a great day’s bike ride. One such ride is across the hills from Kampot to Kep. Around 40km one way, it’s a fun ride with a rewarding small beach at the end. Just a short ride from Kep is the island of Koh Tonsai (or Rabbit Island) that is popular with visitors for day trips to enjoy its sandy beaches, clear waters, comfy hammocks, and amazing sea food in the tiny beach restaurants.

History

Kampot is historically quite diverse. When the French arrived in the mid 19th century, they recorded many Chinese, Vietnamese and Malay villages in the region. However, this diversity is now almost completely gone, with just a few hundred Vietnamese families remaining. The French were the first to really establish any infrastructure in the area, and under their stewardship Kampot became one of Cambodia’s most important ports.However, Kampot saw a great deal of fighting during the civil war and the Khmer Rouge era, leaving many of the old colonial residences destroyed or derelict. The Khmer Rouge fought an intense battle with the Cambodian army to capture Kampot in 1975, and the area fell to their control in 1974. Khmer Rouge factions were still active in the region long after the fall of the regime, and true peace only came in 1998 following the death of Pol Pot.

Weather

Kampot is subject to more changeable weather than other parts of the country as not only is it on the coast, but the proximity of the Bokor Mountain affects the climate. In rainy season Kampot can be really very rainy, and the relatively basic roads outside the town center can make some areas impassable due to water and mud. However, as with much of Cambodia, rain storms tend to clear quickly and so most days will enjoy at least some sunshine. Kampot is a great place to visit in dry season, as the river and the mountains give access to refreshment from the intense heat and dust.

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